Advanced Crevasse Rescue

This class is open to any current High Altitude Mountaineering School (HAMS) students, HAMS graduates, or CMC members with equivalent experience building 3:1 haul systems.

Our lecture/practice sessions will give you the skills needed to rescue a climbing partner who has fallen into a crevasse as well as mitigate your own risk should you fall into one. After this seminar, the skills learned will prepare you to confidently travel on not just well-trodden trade routes but on some of the less populated glacier routes around the world where being self-sufficient is mandatory.

The Advanced Crevasse Rescue Seminar will consist of two lecture/practice sessions. A free training trip will be scheduled in the CMC calendar (Search under ‘ACRS Training Trip’) for students to practice their newly learned skills. Attendance at both lecture/practice sessions will be a prerequisite to sign up for the training trip.

  • Lecture/Practice Sessions: Monday, April 23rd & Thursday April 26th; both sessions are at the American Mountaineering Center (AMC) in Golden and begin at 6:30 PM
  • Training Trip: Saturday, April 28th; meeting at the Woolly Mammoth PnR Lot at 5:00 AM and caravanning to Loveland Pass

Our intent is that by the end of the seminar students will be able to:

  1. Understand the fundamental concepts of mechanical advantage systems
  2. Build a 6:1 drop-loop haul system
  3. Successfully rescue a climber, that is not in one of the end positions on the rope team, from a crevasse fall
  4. Tend to themselves when in a crevasse and be prepared, as the fallen climber, to help in their own rescue​​

Our expectation is that students will have already mastered the construction of a 3:1 haul system PRIOR to this seminar. The 3:1 system will be the basis for both our 5:1 and 6:1 systems. Refresher materials will be sent to students prior to the first lecture. We will not be reviewing the 3:1 system as part of this class so preparation is a MUST.

Please contact Seminar Director Dan Feighery at [email protected] with your HAMS or equivalent experience by Friday April 13th to receive your passcode for registration. Upon receiving the passcode, register for the Advanced Crevasse Rescue Seminar via the CMC calendar.