Knots required for BMS

Reference: Freedom of the Hills, Chapter 9, Basic Safety System.
Web resources:

Special equipment: 3, 5, 7 and 9-foot lengths of 5-mm or 6-mm kernmantle. Two 8-foot and one 10-foot length of 1″ tubular webbing.

All required knots will be shown by the instructor and tied by the students. All knots must be practiced at home, and students must be proficient in tying them before the First Rock Day. A Knot Test will be given after the third lecture. Continuation in the School will be dependent on the ability to tie these knots quickly and neatly and under possibly adverse conditions.

Knot Name Knot Application
1. Overhand knot To safety (tie off loose ends of) other knots. To tie two rope
(Half hitch) ends together with a double overhand.

2. Water knot To tie two webbing ends together.
(also tape knot, ring bend) Used for slings and harnesses.

3. Figure eight loop To clip rope into belay anchor.
(Figure eight on a bight)

4. Figure eight trace To tie end of rope into harness, to tie
(rewoven) Figure eight loop around large anchors.

5. Clove hitch To clip rope into belay anchor.

6. Girth hitch To tie off slings to natural protection.

7. Prusik knot To ascend rope with tied-off prusik cord.

8. Klemheist (Machard) knot To ascend tied-off rope with webbing sling or cord.

9. Double Fisherman’s knot To make the prusik slings and to tie
(Grapevine knot) two rope ends together.

10. Butterfly knot To tie into the middle of a rope during rope travel.

11. Munter hitch (Italian hitch) To serve in place of belay/rappel device if lost.

12. Autoblock To backup a rappel.

13. Mule knot To escape the belay.

14. Chest harness From 8 feet of  1″ tubular webbing. For travel with big packs.

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